Photo essay: Competition leads to artistry and danger on the streets of Kupang

Helene van Klinken

Prowling the streets of Kupang

I’m waiting for a number three yellow bemo, or small minibus, in Kupang, West Timor, capital city of East Nusatenggara province. But the oncoming vehicle has a large sign splashed across the front windscreen, almost totally obscuring the driver: ‘American gangster’, it reads. Hardly reassured, I cautiously clamber aboard, squashing in with the ten other passengers. Visibility to the outside is even less comforting than the slogan that’s blocking the driver’s view.

Local people tell me that the reason the bemo of Kupang are decorated is to attract passengers. I ask a group of school students riding with me if they choose bemo according to the decorations. ‘Of course!’, they chorus. Still not convinced, I ask, ‘So if you are waiting, you will let bemo pass by until one comes along that takes your fancy?’ ‘Of course!’ Older passengers smile and nod tolerantly. Someone adds that she always picks a bemo with a young driver, preferably with spiky hair and earrings: ‘An old driver would never get anyone.’ Old drivers (anyone over about twenty) have to be satisfied with driving bemo which operate to destinations further out of town.

An advancing vehicle leaves no doubt that sound also has a role in drawing and entertaining passengers: large speakers located under the bench seats and often outside attached to the back window pump out techno beat at deafening volumes. Reverberating air horns add to the cacophony. Bemo stop running by seven o’clock in the evening, leaving just enough time to make use of their final drawing card: their bright neon lights and flashing signs.

‘American Gangster’ is just one of the many provocative and sometimes puzzling slogans plastered on front windscreens. Most are in English: Hooligan; Gerald… God bless you; Revolution… play it loud; Shoot me! Some of them seem specifically designed to tempt fate, like ‘Crash’. Others manage to be mystifying and sinister at the same time, like ‘Godles symtems’. And of course there are also many in Indonesian, or mixed, like Berani tampil beda (Dare to be different); Preman Kampus (Campus Hoodlum); Inspirasi! (Inspiration);Ditik Hot (Hot Spot); Play boy… Lagi Jomblo (Playboy… currently single).

Fancy a ride anyone?

‘How to handle a SCANDAL’